Class 25/33: Step 8 – Bogie Re-build

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  • Firstly, take your two bogie chassis with their sets of pick-ups (hopefully you kept the pick-ups for each bogie chassis separate, as per the note in step 5 – “Bogie Disassembly”) and make sure that you have the pick-ups as illustrated in the first picture above (don’t fit them yet). Notice how the two “L” shaped, or hockey stick shaped pick-ups are identically orientated on the left hand bogie chassis, but have the reverse orientation on the right hand chassis. It is important that you don’t mix these up between the left and right bogies, since they won’t fit properly if you do.
  • Next (before fitting the pick-ups) take the black plastic bogie chassis, your model oil and a pin. Use the pin to apply oil to the axle slots on the underside of the bogie. Only the smallest of drops is required (with oil on the pin, touching the pin against the slot should be enough). Be careful to not get the oil anywhere else, especially on the outside of the bogie chassis.
  • Now take one bogie chassis and the two “L” shaped pick-ups that belong to that bogie. On each side of the bogie chassis are two lugs sticking out. Place a pick-up on each side, with each pick-up slotting onto the lugs. Refer to picture 3 above. You will have to hold these in place on the bogie chassis with finger and thumb, other wise they will fall off. Repeat for this process for the other bogie chassis and pick-ups.
  • Now take the two long pick-ups for each bogie that you have left. They slot onto the lugs as per the first picture above. Make sure you put these on after the “L” shaped pick-ups and not before. Refer to the picture to see their orientation.
  • It is now time to slot the wheel axles into the axle slots. With thumb and finger gripping the pick-ups onto the bogie chassis, clip the wheels into place (two per bogie chassis). Note, if you do not hold the pick-ups tight against the bogie chassis, they will obstruct the wheel when you push it on, leading to the brass pick-up getting bent.
  • With pin and oil, apply 1-2 small drops of oil to the wheel gears.

 

  • Take a spring, a coupling and the bogie side-frame. Slot the spring into the small square at the end of the side-frame, as per the first picture above. Also take the coupling and slot it into the small square, butting it up against the spring. The back of the coupling should have a small “pip” for locating the spring on to. This is intuitive if you follow the first picture above. To know that you have put the coupling on the correct way around, check under the coupling to see that a small spleen of plastic is hanging down. If it’s pointing upwards, you need to change the orientation of the coupling. Again, becomes apparent when you do it!
  • The coupling and spring are prone to popping out, so keep them gripped in place between finger and thumb if you can. Now take the bogie chassis with wheels on it (that we reconstructed above) and look at each end. You will see one end has two “prongs” or lugs, and the other end has a horizontal “lip” or ledge on it. Orientate it so that the end with two prongs is facing the coupling and spring on the bogie frame. Now slot it into the bogie frame as per the middle picture above. Now pushing the two together, the back end of each piece (bogie chassis and side-frame) should clip into place. It is important that you follow this order, otherwise the two pieces will not clip together.


Tip: The copper pick-ups on the bogie chassis can impinge upon the side frame when you clip them together. Do not force the side-frame and bogie chassis together, as this will crimp/damage the copper pick ups. Pay attention to the pick-ups when clipping the side frame and bogie chassis together and ease the frame over and around the pick-ups.


  • You should now have a complete bogie chassis with side-frame and coupling, as per picture 3 above. Place it on your track or cutting Matt and push it along (apply a little downward pressure). If it feels free then you have done a good job. If not then remove the side-frame and unclip the wheels (careful the coupling spring doesn’t make a dash for freedom) and check that the long thin pick-ups which brush the wheel backs aren’t sticking out too much. If they are then they can offer too much resistance to the wheels. Take them off one by one and bend them in slightly – obviously they still have to brush the wheel backs and hence there is always going to be some pressure. Careful not to be too harsh with them – they can snap.

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  • If the running is still stiff after adjusting the pick-ups then take a look at the picture above. The top gear (pinion gear – the one you see the pin pointing at) can sometimes get pinched by the sides of the gear tower (the plastic which shrouds the top gear). Push the two shrouds out wards slightly so that the gear has more room to rotate. You can use your nails for this. Be careful not to overdo it though. Also oil in between the gear and the shrouds to lessen any friction. As always, only the slightest applications is necessary.

 

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