Class 25/33 Service Guide

This service guide has been designed to assist you in repairing your Graham Farish (Poole) Class 25 and 33 locomotives, which share the same chassis and gear mechanisms. I have described the methods which I use and that I find work best for me. However, that is not to say that there aren’t other (just as effective) methods available and which might be advised to you by other people. Ultimately it is your locomotive and you should proceed with caution if you are new to dismantling N Gauge models – the parts are small, which make them prone to being lost, and they are also delicate – pinch or pull too hard and you might break something.

The pictures below act as a menu and will take you directly to that step. Once you are on a step, you can navigate backwards and forwards to the previous / next step by clicking on the links at the top and bottom of the page. If you want to return here then just click on “Service Guide”, which is also to be found at the top and the bottom of each page.

Enjoy servicing your locomotives – it can be one of the most enjoyable aspects of the hobby, indeed a “hobby within a hobby”. It can also be immensely frustrating at times. Just remember, proceed with caution. Read the guide fully before attempting your first rebuild, do not pull or pinch too hard, and if you are not sure, ask someone more experienced than you what you should do next. You can post questions on ngaugeforum (requires registration) and you will be sure to get a response from someone with experience. Please read the disclaimer below.

Before following the clearly laid out steps below, it is worth noting that (particularly for the class 25) the locomotive was produced with two different types of bearing – an early “long collar” version, and a later, “flat collar” version. Take a look here to see which one you have, since this will affect how you rebuild your diesel.


Please accept that this service guide is just that, a guide. I started out initially without any help from others * and the learning curve was steep. Yes I did break things, yes I did put things back together the wrong way, but that is all part of the learning curve. The hardest thing is conjuring up the courage to start. Once you’ve done that, your enthusiasm in seeing your locos running well again should provide you with the ongoing impetus you need to seeing the project through. I wish you good luck and remember, anything you do based on the guides above is at your own risk. If you break something, it’s not because “the guide told you to do it” – the guide is just there to help you.

Disclaimer 2:

These guides will help you return a locomotive which has serviceable parts back to good running order. They will not miraculously fix split gears, burnt out motors or bent drive couplings. If your locomotive is not running due to a broken component then you need to diagnose what is wrong with it in order to repair it. You might come across broken components (especially split gears) when undertaking a full service, in which case you need to replace the components in question.

* That did change and I must credit a certain Mr Russell Hobbs for his encouragement and enthusiasm in teaching me a lot of what I now know. Without his wizardry I wouldn’t know a quarter of what I know now – thank you Russell!

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